Lapland: walking in a winter wonderland (From Dorset Society)

Lapland: walking in a winter wonderland

6:00am Thursday 1st December 2011 in Travel stories

AS a former Scrooge, the prospect of Christmas would be enough to spark the onset of my annual festive fear, but not this Noel.

A visit to Esprit Santa’s Lapland with my boyfriend – a self-confessed Christmas addict – has changed everything.

Riding reindeers, huskies and Santa sleighs is one way to set you on a journey to festive cheer quick smart.

We were one of few couples without excitable kids in tow but as child-free bystanders it was obvious ages were all-important to ‘Lap up' the full experience.

Crucially, little ones need to be young enough to believe in the magic of Father Christmas but old enough to understand what's going on – and withstand the hardy climate.

Nothing prepares you for the sub-zero temperatures, in our case a nippy -22C. Average December temperatures usually hover around -12C but can dip as low as -30C.

Temperatures are soon forgotten at the quaint airport of Ivalo when a man wearing traditional furs is standing outside with a beautiful white reindeer to greet us.

An eccentric elf leaps around talking gibberish only children might understand and directs everyone onto private coaches which take around 30 minutes to reach the accommodation in Saariselka, way up in Lapland’s snowy far north.

As we roll past ice-capped trees punctuating marshmallow pink skies, there’s little sign of life except for the odd lit-up wood hut. Light in Lapland is scarce in December with around four hours of daylight in the early afternoon and two to three hours of ‘grey light’ either side, rather like twilight.

Grand plans for snow chic go out of the frosted window as we line up for the all-important weather-proof clothing comprising thermal outersuit, two pairs of thick woollen socks, snow boots, gloves and hats – all provided free of charge.

Our hotel, Riekonlinna, is situated close to the village centre. It’s a popular family hotel and our room is clean but basic.

We test out our haul of snow-friendly fashion with a tobogganing session in the dedicated slope two minutes walk from the hotel.

Adults and kids alike are bombing down the hill and the sheer thickness of the snow ensures any tumbles are painless – apart from our throbbing exposed icy faces.

Snowmobile safaris and Northern Lights visits are paid-for optional activities and also weather dependent (see santaslapland.com/breaks/optional-adventures).

Just like Christmas Eve, we indulge in a mini feast and get an early night ready for the big day – meeting Santa Claus. On a ‘Santa’s Magic’ package, the two-night whistlestop break is geared towards the winter wonderland activity day.

There’s extra anticipation aboard the bus for the forest as children chant their Christmas lists with parents and grandparents to report to the man in red. The excitement is infectious.

I’m equally thrilled as we’re pulled around the stunning snowy forest (aka Santa’s grounds) in a cosy sleigh by jingling reindeers and then at breakneck speed by our very own team of six beautiful huskies–- undoubtedly the highlight of my trip.

After a short demo, adults get to hold the reins and ‘drive’ the obedient, energetic dogs using a few simple instructions and braking techniques.

There’s also the opportunity to try your luck with ice fishing (if you’ve got the patience) and get creative making snow carvings with blocks of ice and tools for each family.

The wonderland log cabin is a haven for regular breaks to sup on hot drinks and thaw out and refuel with a simple but sustaining lunch of soup, spaghetti and meatballs.

Children trudge in from the snow with beaming faces, presents and high-pitched voices after their visit to see Santa Claus. Each has a different story to recount thanks to pre-organised Lapland letters, hand-scrawled at home in advance, so that Santa can magically surprise them with what they’ve written.

Every family enjoys their own private scheduled visit. Feeling enamoured with the spirit of Christmas, it was time for Ms Scrooge to meet her match and visit the man himself...

A snowmobile whisks us off at speed into the picturesque woods, stopping at clues to his presence – piles of presents, sleigh – until we finally reach the highly convincing traditional wooden cabin where excitable elves are throwing snowballs and jumping up and down at our arrival. Suddenly, I feel six years old again.

White-bearded Santa welcomes us into his present-laden home and maintains the magic, talking in that gruff voice about his duties and even cracking a corny joke about his wife – “Mary Christmas”.

My boyfriend leaves Santa’s hut punching the air with elation. I can only imagine the excitement a young child might feel.

We re-live the day’s magical activities over the farewell Christmas lunch, complete with crackers and paper hats. Supping mulled wine, as we peer outside it’s snowing thick and fast.

This is certainly one way to guarantee the perfect white Christmas – and wave a festive farewell to your inner Scrooge.

Factile

Lisa Haynes was guest of Esprit Santa’s Lapland programme, which starts on December 1, and offers two nights’ half-board at Santa's Hotel Holiday Club in Saariselka from £1,616 ex-Gatwick/Stansted.

Package includes return flights, transfers and full day of activities in winter wonderland. Santa’s Lapland reservations: 01252 618345 and santaslapland.com