Short and sweet (From Dorset Society)

Short and sweet

7:00am Monday 1st June 2009

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Time-strapped? Cash-strapped? Both? Simply take the staycation, the credit-crunch enforced trend for decidedly not holidaying abroad, blend it with Le Weekend – a short break with added va-va-voom - and you have the perfect, short-but-sweet mini-escape.

But while it’s not about quantity, it’s all about quality and the secret to getting it right is choosing a great place to spend your precious few days – and bucks. A weekend down the road in a chintzy B & B simply will not do. What you’re looking for is location, luxury and leaving the everyday as far behind as possible.

Cue the Penhelig Arms, a hidden, waterside treasure of historic Welsh loveliness in sleepy Aberdyfi, right on the southern-most tip of stunning Snowdonia National Park.

You want picturesque?

Whitewashed and blue-trimmed it sits in a haven for sailors and water-sports fans on the water’s edge, where the mountains meet the sea at the mouth of one of the prettiest estuaries in Wales.

Hugged from behind by the beautiful, towering mountainside and greeted each day by the gentle lapping of the tidal comings and goings of the Dyfi, where salt waters from Cardigan Bay head up towards Machynlleth and rainwater from Cader Idris heads downwards to the open sea. You’re talking serious scenery here.

Aberdyfi’s famous championships golf links course is nearby, it’s watersport heaven and the wildlife is glorious. There’s a sandy beach, littered with the sort of wee, weather-bothered boats you see on trendy greetings cards, a jetty piled high with make-do-and-mend lobster pots and all sorts of other fish-catching paraphernalia.

Which would explain the corkingly-good menu at the Penhelig’s restaurant, where life is pretty much governed by the day’s catch and what’s on offer from local producers, so it’s hands up for fresh sea bass, bream, giant prawns and whatever else happens to flop onto the chef’s counter that day.

Perfectly cooked and served simply to celebrate that just-caught deliciousness in the New England-style restaurant, you can see why the place – and the plaice - has a wide and faithful following.

That and the meltingly tender Welsh lamb – but of course – and beef, also served simply as stews, slow-cooked shanks and the likes to allow their flavours to do the talking.

You want luxury?

All the rooms are tastefully designed, well equipped and most have views of the picture-postcard surroundings. But you can go one better and book one of the extra-spacious suites in Bodhelig, a self-contained, deluxe (don’t you just love that word?) addition, perched above the historic inn and built into the actual hillside, with terraces and patios that make the most of those views. Or go the whole hog and take up residence at Penhelig House, a lavish, two-storey penthouse that’s a paean to contemporary design, with walk-in showers, plasma screen TVs (yes, plural), gorgeous furnishings and fabrics, and even one of those big, comfy leather tilt-back chairs with footstool positioned at an upstairs window so you can lounge around watching the boats roll by. Outside is a private, glass-walled patio, with Welsh slate water feature.

You want away from it all?

Well, apart from the hotel, which has its own Fisherman’s Bar – all wood-panels, lovingly-tended ales and jolly, weather-beaten locals – there’s a handful of shops, pubs and eateries along the high street or tucked away in the network of little alleys, a general store, a bank. And not much else.

There isn’t even a cash machine. Bliss.

Yes, a few hours here and you feel yourself chilling; a few days and you’re part of the scenery and don’t want to leave. Perhaps it’s the beauty of the place, maybe it is that sense of remoteness (even though it’s only a short drive in either direction to bigger, busier towns and there’s all that endless outstanding countryside to explore), it’s certainly a lot to do with the feeling of space there.

But the luxury helps. You feel cocooned, looked-after with none of the stuffiness and formality you often find in similar quality hotels.

So what are you waiting for? The Euro exchange rate to improve? The cost of flying to halve? Pigs to fly?

Why bother, when, as they say in that part of the world, it’s luverly in Aberduverly!

FACT FILE

The Penhelig Arms belongs to a group of 54 unique properties throughout Wales that make up the Welsh Rarebits collection, which also includes top country house hotels, cosy inns and intimate hideaways. rarebits.co.uk Rates at the Penhelig Arms start from £73 pp in the hotel; £89 pp in Bodhelig; and £98 in Penhlig House. Children sharing from £8 per night and dogs (except Penhelig House) £5.

Prices per night, inc. full Welsh breakfast.

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