The 2017 Ashes Series has recently been announced. Karen
Bowerman recommends how to plan a sporting break in one of the host
cities, Melbourne


My guide, James, pauses, to show me "the best view" of Melbourne Cricket Ground. Through a gap in the stadium's seats, there's a strip of rich, green grass and during season, James tells me, the pitch is cut daily, to keep it exactly 12 and a half millimetres high.

Soon, he says, a 20m length of turf, grown off site, will be transported
in its entirety, and "inserted" into the arena for the Ashes. Melbourne
was the first club in the world to have a portable cricket pitch and is
very proud of it.

The club also has a unique museum. Besides newspaper cuttings and
photos, there's even crockery and sheet music with a cricket theme.
Knowing England are the current holders of the Ashes, I can't help
asking, a little cheekily, if I can see the trophy.

James gives a wry smile, and shows me, instead, something from the first Test match at the Oval, in 1882. In all the euphoria, no one noticed
that the Australian wicketkeeper, Jack Blackham, had pocketed the
ball...

Besides offering stadium and club tours, Melbourne Cricket Ground is
also home to the National Sports Museum. There's an impressive display
of Olympic torches (the Games were held at the ground in 1956) and
galleries devoted to tennis, soccer and netball.

It doesn't take long to realise that Melbourne, on Victoria's south
coast, lives and breathes sport. It hosts the Ashes, the Australian Open
(tennis), the Melbourne Cup (horse racing) Formula One Grand Prix and
Australian Rules Football.

If you're visiting, there's plenty for a sport-filled holiday too, with
hiking, diving and surfing on the nearby Mornington Peninsula, a
90-minute drive away.

Central Melbourne also has lots of cycle paths, so I hire a bike (there
are several rental shops and a city bike share scheme similar to
London's Boris bikes) and set off from Federation Square, home to ACMI
(the Australian Centre for the Moving Image) and the Ian Potter Centre,
a gallery dedicated exclusively to Australian Art.

I follow a path along the Yarra River and cross into parkland on the
south bank. From there, I cycle to the city's Shrine of Remembrance,
dedicated to servicemen killed in WWI. Each year, at 11am on November
11, a shaft of light shines through an opening in the ceiling,
illuminating the word "love" on the stone of remembrance inside.

Heading back towards the city is an easy, well-marked route, and since
Melbourne is flat and compact, it's a great way to combine sightseeing
and a little exercise.

WHERE TO STAY

  • Ovolo Laneways, ovologroup.com

Located in Melbourne's Central Business District (CBD), just minutes
from Federation Square, Ovolo Laneways is quirky, modern and fun.
There's free Wi-Fi, a free guest laundry (detergent provided) and free
Happy Hour drinks on the terrace.
Rooms range from studios to a penthouse suite with an outside Jacuzzi.
Double rooms from 329 AU dollars (around £189 per night), including
breakfast.


WHERE TO EAT

  • St Crispin, saintcrispin.com.au

St Crispin's in Collingwood, a small neighbourhood northeast of the city
(take tram 86 from the centre), offers "Little Bites" such as Port
Phillip scallops, along with five and seven-course tasting menus and an
a la carte option. Located in an old cobbler's, this award-winning
restaurant took its name from the trade's patron saint.
Mains include glazed beef neck with beetroot and black barley, and
swordfish with watercress noodles, mussels and prawns. Two courses: 50
AU dollars (about £30), three courses 65 AU dollars (approx £40).

  • Embla, embla.com.au

Recently opened Embla, in the city centre, is primarily a wine bar, but
it has also won recognition for its food.
It's long and narrow with painted brick walls, wooden beams and a wooden bar. The atmosphere is buzzing, with a bistro-feel and a youthful vibe. The emphasis is on traditional cooking with simple flavours. Most plates are designed for sharing. Main dishes: 17-37 AU dollars (between £10 and £25).

WHERE TO DRINK

  •  The Garden State Hotel, gardenstatehotel.com.au

This sprawling, four-level watering hole in Flinders Lane (one of the
main foodie streets of Melbourne's CBD) offers a wide range of beers,
plus wine, champagne and cocktails. The 130-year-old building is a
former saw mill.

  •  Koko Black Cafe, kokoblack.com

Melbourne is known as the coffee capital of Australia and there are
independent coffee shops everywhere. For a caffeine fix - and
hand-crafted chocolates - in historic surroundings, try the family-run
Koko Black in Collins Street.

WHAT TO DO

  • Go surfing

The Mornington Peninsula, 70km southeast of the city, offers good
surfing. Beginners should try the gentler waves off Sorrento beach or
join classes at Point Leo and Shoreham. Gunnamatta offers some of the
best waves for experienced surfers, while the famed breaks of Bells
Beach are where the Rip Curl Pro is held every Easter.
If you fancy a lesson, try Salty Surf School (saltysurfschool.com).
Two-hour group classes cost 60 AU dollars per person (about £35).

Melbourne is known for its laneways (alleyways) and historic shopping
arcades. Join a walking tour to discover more. Our guide, Nicholas
Jones, took us to the Block Arcade in Collins Street, with its vaulted
roof and mosaic floor, and the Royal Arcade in Bourke Street, which was
once a Turkish bath house.

TRAVEL FACTS
For more information on the destination, visit
www.visitmelbourne.com, visitvictoria.com and australia.com

For information on the release of tickets for the 2017 Ashes series,
log on to www.cricket.com.au/ashes

Etihad Airways (www.etihad.com) operates daily flights from London
Heathrow to Melbourne. Economy tickets start from around £1,040 return.