"HARRY'S is a place you can just be yourself," explained Tim, who owns and manages this gem of a bistro in Canford Cliffs.

Despite being right in the heart of jet-set country, it has a warm, family-run feel which money just can't buy.

The atmosphere reminded me of something between a country pub and a stylish eatery on the USA's Eastern seaboard.

Rustic wooden floorboards and tables are flanked by a well-stocked bar, all lit very ambiently. Whether you're a people-watcher or want to be tucked away privately there's a table for you, and the front and rear decks offer further opportunity to sit and relax.

At this time of year, the menu has plenty of home made winter warmers for lovers of comfort food, such as the shoulder of lamb, braised for about four to five hours until meltingly tender.

And one of the dishes from the specials board on this particular night was a glazed ham hock in a cider gravy which also had been given the slow, patient treatment.

One of Harry's signature starters, apart from the mussels in white wine sauce, is the crispy lamb with sweet chilli dip (£5.95). I had to go for this, and looking around, plenty of fellow diners had followed suit. Bowls were stacked high with big crispy chunks of prime lamb which weren't at all greasy.

If you're the type who goes for the crispy parts of a Sunday joint, then you just have to try this.

My friend went for another commendable starter of sticky ribs (£5.95) which had plenty of tender meat on them, smothered in a tangy, smoky sauce.

To follow she went for the trio of fish (£14.95) from the specials menu and she enjoyed her mackerel, trout and mahi-mahi, simply served in a lemon parsley butter. Tim explained how the fish changes according to freshness and season, so different catch may be used on another night.

I chose the steak and ale pie (£11.55) which came in a huge dish with a rich and warming gravy and a puff pastry hat. Again, the meat was so tender it just fell apart and there wasn't a scrap of fat or gristle.

The whole thing was a real treat from start to finish, but a word of warning - make sure you go with a big appetite because this pie filled every corner.

Main courses came with a selection of fresh vegetables, which for us included carrots, new potatoes and cauliflower.

While it may sound as if Harry's is geared toward meat lovers, vegetarians are also catered for, although perhaps to a lesser extent. Typical examples of vegetarian dishes include spinach and mushroom curry; ratatouille au gratin; or Mediterranean vegetable crepes smothered in bechamel sauce. Tim also caters for special dietary requirements.

Sweets (priced from around £3.50) also change daily, but on offer this evening were the likes of chocolate fudge cake; apple crumble, crème brulee and banoffee pie - all home made of course.

My companion opted for poached pears (warm or cold to suit) which were a befitting autumnal dessert both in appearance and taste.

I went for the bread and butter pudding with custard which was surprisingly light and airy - a good job considering the generosity of my starter and main course.

I'd definitely go back to Harry's - an establishment previously called Henry's. While some may believe it was named after Prince Harry, the only connection is a photograph of him up on the wall.

It's certainly fit for a prince though.

14 Haven Road, Canford Cliffs, BH13 7LP. Telephone: 01202 700815 for reservations.

5:14pm Thursday 30th October 2008

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