THE Glasshouse Restaurant in Lyndhurst prides itself on ingredients which are free range, wild, or locally sourced.

In fact, probably the most far-flung of the restaurant's important factors is a list of decent wines from around the globe, and of course its new restaurant manager, Jean Baptiste Vernet, who hails from Provence in France.

And while he may not be local (or indeed wild), he is certainly free range.

If you're looking for unsurpassable quality in a lovely setting, then you can't go wrong with this restaurant in the heart of the New Forest.

The clean lines of its decor are a mix of classic and contemporary, with more than a hint of 1930s elegance evident in the furniture, palms and photographic prints.

It's worth arriving early for a drink in the ambient cellar bar with its exposed brickwork and large sofas.

The restaurant has been independently recognised and recently awarded two AA rosettes, guaranteeing food which has been prepared using a particular level of precision with the attention on the quality and selection of ingredients.

The evening menu on our visit comprised a choice of five starters and six main courses - a reassuring sign that everything is as fresh as possible.

It included local goats' cheese, Hampshire beef fillet, a spinach risotto cake made from Dorset's famed Blue Vinney cheese, and New Forest bottled water from South Gorley near Ringwood.

The salmon comes from Scotland but it is smoked locally, and we enjoyed this starter immensely with its olive and parmesan focaccia.

We also had a ravioli with caramelised onion, rosemary and that lovely creamy Ticklemore goats' cheese - all incorporated into tasty little pillows which made a very satisfying starter.

I'm a firm believer that a good vegetarian dish should turn the head of the most confirmed meat-eater, and I confess my head was indeed turned by the ground bean and hazelnut steak with cheese fondue, tomato relish and black onion seed bread.

To call it a steak was an inspired decision, as it had a rustic, ample quality without a trace of insipidness. I would order this again in a heartbeat, as it was so different and flavoursome.

Another dish which often gets overlooked is pork, but we had the feeling that the slow cooked pork belly on this menu shouldn't be ignored.

We made the right decision. This succulent meat just fell apart on the fork. Some parts were gooey and caramelised, others were perfect for mopping up the tasty jus.

It was served with Jerusalem artichoke puree, baby onions and seared scallops, and in keeping with the local tradition, the pork was from the Old Hampshire breed.

Vegetables, priced £2.50, comprised carrots, broccoli and red cabbage braised with wine.

For cheese lovers, the dessert menu includes a range of south coast treats, including Dorset Drum (an old shire vintage mature cheddar, hand-waxed from long matured stock with a distinctive flavour), as well as Somerset brie made by traditional methods.

Or if you have more of a sweet tooth, you won't be disappointed by the other goodies on offer, such as the iced peach melba parfait or the chocolate and thyme fondant with avocado ice cream.

Yes, that's right...avocado ice cream. Chef kindly gave us a taster of this fabulous creamy concoction scented with lemon and vanilla and, surprisingly, it worked well.

It's apparent that ice creams are his forte, such as the rice pudding ice cream that was served with my rhubarb pannacotta. On the side was a spiced, jammy portion of the seasonal fruit, and both the taste and presentation of this dessert was superb.

As was my friend's oozy, moist walnut tart, served on a long platter with a separate warm poached pear and a creamy Roquefort ice cream. Simply stunning.

Considering the fantastic standard of the food, a three-course evening meal at the Glasshouse costs just £30 which I believe represents excellent value for money.

Lunches (reservation only) are available priced £20 for three courses and £15 for two. Look out for the special events and themed evenings.

The Glasshouse Restaurant,
Pikes Hill
Lyndhurst
Hants SO43 7AS
Telephone 02380 286129

4:52pm Sunday 1st June 2008

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