SITTING pretty after a recent facelift, and a change of management a few months ago, The Willett Arms on the outskirts of Wimborne is exactly what a traditional pub should be.

It has been stylishly refurbished using a tasteful mix of old and new, with some rustic signature pieces of furniture alongside driftwood, textured fabrics and New England style panelling.

It's said that the service men and women of RAF Tarrant Rushton favoured this as a watering hole during the Second World War, and the pub itself is named after Ralph Willett who bought the estate of Merley in 1751.

That's why it's good to see some olde-worlde pictures and lovely log fires still in place which add that all-important character.

If you're looking for hushed formality, you won't find it here.

On a recent visit, the staff served up a welcome which was particularly warm and noteworthy. And one look at the carefully selected mish-mash of tables and chairs made us instantly realise that this was a place where we could relax for the evening.

With a view over the large garden area, it was tempting to sit outside on this warm evening, and watch a steady flow of cyclists arrive and depart. This is, after all, a prime watering hole right on the Castleman Trailway - a 26 km route following the line of an old railway between Dorchester and Southampton, now favoured by walkers, cyclists and horseriders.

Freshly cooked food is served all day, every day at the Willett Arms, including Sundays when a great traditional roast is up on the specials board - right where it should be. The menu includes dishes such as slow roasted welsh lamb shoulder with sun-dried tomatoes, garlic and rosemary; 28-day aged fillet steak rossini; home-made pie of the day; handmade burgers and beer battered haddock and chips.

It was a weeknight when we were tempted by the English mezze to start - a sharing platter including goats' cheese and pesto dip, minted cucumber yoghurt, marinated crayfish, mixed olives and chicken liver pate with warm breads.

However, I chose the roasted flat mushrooms with Cropwell Bishop Stilton and spinach, a generous portion, beautifully cooked, with just little Stilton which didn't overwhelm the mushrooms.

My friend chose the pan-fried black pearl sea scallops with chilli, ginger and coriander. This was a meal in itself, with three huge scallops on a spaghetti bed. The edges of the scallops were perfectly toasty, leaving a lovely marshmallowy inside. Sadly this dish had lots of sliced ginger which masked the taste of the scallops.

To follow, I went for the summer vegetable, broccoli and cauliflower pancake with cheddar sauce which was fully laden with vegetables, including peas. It was a light, summery combination of tastes and textures with just the right amount of cheese sauce.

My companion's spiced beef ravioli was also a hearty dish, with parcels almost as big as your palms! The seasoning had a little punch of heat to complement the rich tomato sauce.

Just when we thought we couldn't squeeze anything else in, along came a dessert menu, blatantly flirting with us by way of its chocolate brownie and its lemon curd tart. We shared a warm apple and Scottish gooseberry crumble with custard which was very delicious and went down remarkably well on a summer's evening.

Not only is there a lunchtime menu, but you can get a variety of different bar bites here (just the thing for two to share) such as half a pint of shell-on prawns, or cauliflower bites with curried tempura batter and coriander mayonnaise.

And with an extensive wine selection a variety of continental lagers and plenty of real ales, there's really no excuse not to make a summery outing to the Willett Arms and relax awhile.

The Willett Arms 2, Oakley Hill, Wimborne, BH21 1RN, 01202 883144,thewillettarmswimborne.co.uk.

4:04pm Wednesday 30th July 2008

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