12:34pm Tuesday 1st September 2009
THE Sylhet region of Bangladesh is well known for its tea gardens and tropical forests, and the city itself is one of the most opulent in the whole country.
It’s entirely befitting, then, that Bournemouth’s newest restaurant has been named Grand Sylhet in its honour.
As soon as you walk into the grand premises on Westover Road, you know you’re in for a treat.
The first thing that strikes you is the open space and clean lines, with subtle greens and golds complementing the wooden floors, contemporary artwork and crisp table linens.
The menu features Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine, and the chances are you’ll find something on it you have never seen on another menu, let alone tried before.
I loved the descriptions of some of the dishes which lent an interesting and personal touch, such as the Lamb Gobi Jai Puri: “A very popular dish among the Indian community and eaten in every home, comprising tender chunks of lamb cooked with shredded cabbage creating a unique taste and texture”.
The Tawa Barbecue Lamb Chops were described as being “cooked in a very spicy but not so hot sauce as eaten by our staff and family”. And we learned that the Murgh Batwar (chicken tikka and mince lamb koftas in sauce) was originally created for the lancers of the Royal Indian Cavalry.
As well as starters and some more familiar curry dishes, you can choose from a tandoori selection, where the marinated meats are cooked over a charcoal fire.
There are also a number of chef’s recommendations, such as the Gurka Mosalla (chicken or lamb) cooked with medium spices and lamb mince using the chef’s own unique recipe; plus the Grand Sylhet superior selection. Dishes in this tempting line-up include the restaurant’s signature dish of whole lobster with a selection of scallops, prawns and mixed veg infused with herbs and light spices.
To start, we were nearly tempted by the salmon tikka cooked in a charcoal oven, but opted for papadums (50p each) with the chutney and pickle accompaniments, (50p each). To my mind there is no finer beginning to an Indian meal than freshly-cooked crisp papadums with the varying textures and tastes of the accompanying chutneys and relishes.
As a main course I went for the Shakhoti Chicken (£10.95), a medium-hot dish cooked with ginger, mustard seed, cream and almond powder. I was expecting a fairly creamy affair but wasn’t disappointed in the rich, condensed flavours with a lovely zing. If a madras is your usual order, you may be swayed by this tasty concoction. I was particularly impressed with the quality and size of the chicken pieces which had been obviously marinated with loving care and were absolutely delicious.
My friend chose the King Prawn Bhuna Special (£13.95), with fat king prawns grilled over a charcoal fire with chopped tomatoes, onion and green peppers in a medium spiced sauce. She was extremely happy with her dish which she had with a natural-looking pilau rice (£2.50).
My vegetable nan (£2.65) was a triumph, too. I’d never tried this variety before but the fluffy, buttery bread was subtly peppered with chopped green vegetables and converted me instantly.
Wanting something light to finish, my friend chose from a variety of coffees, while I had a mango sorbet and coconut ice cream (£3.95) which had a meringue heart and was topped with succulent raspberry, kiwi fruit and lychee. The fresh tropical flavours really cleansed the palate and were a befitting end to an enjoyable meal.
But freshness seems to be the essence of the Grand Sylhet, which, despite only being open for a few weeks, boasts impeccable staff and a clientele who already travel from afar and vow to return.
Grand Sylhet, at 61 Westover Road, Bournemouth BH1 2BZ, is open seven days a week noon-2pm and 6pm-11pm. Phone 01202 559115 for reservations
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