Style and elegance at Bournemouth's Cumberland Hotel (From Dorset Society)

Style and elegance at Bournemouth's Cumberland Hotel

6:30am Saturday 1st August 2009

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THE 1930s and 1940s eras are back in vogue. And fitting in very stylishly is the Cumberland Hotel which was built in 1937 at the height of the Art Deco period.

Thanks to a recent multi-million pound refurbishment both inside and out, the classic shaped building is back to its former glory – reflecting the grandeur of a bygone era but with a modern twist.

It’s located on Bournemouth’s East Cliff, but you could be forgiven for thinking you were on a beach in Miami.

Its Ventana Brasserie and Bar add to this bold flavour with its deco details using lots of greys, metallics, reds and bright pinks. It sounds like it shouldn’t work but it does, and the bright fuschia shirts of the waiting staff are both refreshing and smart.

On the subject of refreshing, on warm evenings the brasserie pulls back its huge windows to provide an open plan feel onto the Lido Deck, where you can sit and enjoy a drink or meal if you’d prefer.

An outdoor pool lends even more of a relaxed atmosphere, as do the sumptuous chill beds alongside.

The food and the ambience are informal, with a menu including a number of salads and sandwiches, childrens’ meals and a barbecue served on warm summer days as an occasional alternative to the brasserie menu.

On a recent visit on a balmy summer evening I was almost swayed by the Italian style bruschetta (£4.95) to start, and also the fresh pan-fried asparagus (£5.95) with Spain’s famous manchego cheese.

But the spicy Thai crab cakes (£5.95) made on the premises proved most alluring and I wasn’t disappointed with these plump parcels served with fresh leaves and a shot glass of sweet chilli sauce for pouring.

When a dish comes under the recommendation of the head chef, you know its worth sampling, and my friend was most impressed with his calamari fritti (£5.50). The rings were thick but and sublimely tender, coated in the sort of light batter that only comes from the kitchen of an expert. Similarly, the crispy peppered fillet of fresh salmon (£11.95) was also a ‘head chef’s recommendation’, and how could I refuse?

Surrounded by a drizzle of vodka, lime and chilli salsa and on green pea mash, this prime, thick fillet was moist and well-cooked and the whole dish relied very successfully on its natural, fresh flavours.

The Ventana is proud of its homemade gourmet burgers, (£10.95) and rightly so. Made from select lean steak mince, these are thick, well-seasoned and a far cry from the frozen things you find elsewhere. My friend chose his with rich barbecue sauce, bacon and cheese, but there’s a choice of seven varieties, including guacamole and jalapeno, or chef’s blue cheese dressing.

The very impressive burger came with a choice of French fries or hand cut chips, and the latter came in fat golden chunks – exactly what you’d expect from a home made chip.

Likewise, all the puddings are homemade on the premises and we chose to share a surprisingly light Baileys bread & butter pudding (£4.95) with ice cream to finish a very enjoyable meal.

Look out for the downturn delights at the Ventana, where a selection of two courses are served from 6.30pm for only £8.95.

And don’t forget the Air Festival on August 20-23. The Cumberland offers one of the best vantage points and is offering daytime barbecue packages from only £28.95 per person.

• The Ventana Brasserie and Bar at the Cumberland Hotel, East Overcliff Drive, Bournemouth, 01202 556529

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